The Hole Truth: NY's Best Bagels--There isn't much more New York than a bagel, and New Yorkers are very loyal to their favorite bagel purveyors; in fact, discussions about who makes the best bagel can lead to heated arguments. Following are the top contenders:

Absolute Bagels. 2708 Broadway, between 107th and 108th streets (tel. 212/932-2105). A new player on the bagel scene and chief competitor to Columbia Bagels . Their egg bagels, hot out of the oven, melt in your mouth and their whitefish salad is perfectly smoky though not overpowering.

Columbia Bagels. 2836 Broadway, at 110th Street (tel. 212/222-3200). Some say that Columbia's bagels are so good, they named a university after them. Well, they're certainly good enough to keep Columbia students happy and well fed. The homemade cheese spreads are also excellent.

Ess-A- Bagel. 359 First Ave., at 21st Street (tel. 212/260-2252; www.ess-a-bagel.com). When it comes to size, Ess-a-Bagel's are the best of the biggest; plump, chewy, and oh so satisfying. Also at 831 Third Ave., between 50th and 51st streets (tel. 212/980-1010).

H&H Bagels. 2239 Broadway, at 80th Street (tel. 212/595-8003; www.handhbagel.com). Long reputed as the best bagel in New York -- which may have resulted in the arrogant price hike to $1 a bagel -- H&H Bagels are my personal favorite. Some complain they are a bit too sweet, but I disagree. Bagels are always fresh ... a good thing for the aficionado. Also at 639 W. 46th St., at 12th Avenue (tel. 212/595-8000). Take out only.

Murray's Bagels. 500 Sixth Ave., between 12th and 13th streets (tel. 212/462-2830). There's nothing like a soft, warm bagel to begin your day with, and Murray's does them beautifully. Their smoked fish goes perfectly on their bagels.

The New York Deli News--There's nothing more Noo Yawk than hunkering down over a mammoth pastrami on rye at an authentic Jewish deli, where anything you order comes with a bowl of lip-smacking sour dills and a side of attitude. Here are some of the best.

Artie's New York Delicatessen, 2290 Broadway, between 82nd and 83rd streets (tel. 212/579-5959; www.arties.com). This new kid on the deli block can hold its own on the playground with the big boys, thank you very much, especially in the wiener department.

Barney Greengrass, the Sturgeon King, 541 Amsterdam Ave., between 86th and 87th streets on the Upper West Side (tel. 212/724-4707). This unassuming, daytime-only deli has become legend for its high-quality salmon (sable, gravlax, Nova Scotia, kippered, lox, pastrami -- you choose), whitefish, and sturgeon (of course).

Carnegie Deli, 854 Seventh Ave., at 55th Street (tel. 800/334-5606 or 212/757-2245; www.carnegiedeli.com), where it's worth subjecting yourself to surly service, tourist-targeted overpricing, and elbow-to-elbow seating for some of the best pastrami and corned beef in town. Even big eaters may be challenged by mammoth sandwiches with names like "Fifty Ways to Love Your Liver" (chopped liver, hard-boiled egg, lettuce, tomato, and onion).

Katz's Delicatessen, the city's best deli, remains fabulously old-world despite its hipster-hot Lower East Side location at 205 E. Houston St., at Ludlow Street (tel. 212/254-2246).

Second Avenue Deli, 156 Second Ave., at 10th Street (tel. 800/NYC-DELI or 212/677-0606), is the best kosher choice in town (for all you goyim out there, that means no milk, butter, or cheese is served). There's no bowing to tourism here -- this is the real deal. The service is brusque, the decor is nondescript, and the sandwiches don't have cute names, but the dishes are true New York classics: gefilte fish, matzo ball soup, chicken livers, potato knishes, nova lox and eggs. What more do you want from a deli?

Stage Deli, 834 Seventh Ave., between 53rd and 54th streets (tel. 212/245-7850; www.stagedeli.com), is noisy and crowded and packed with tourists, but it's still as authentic as they come The celebrity sandwiches, ostensibly created by the personalities themselves, are jaw-distending mountains of top-quality fixings: The Tom Hanks is roast beef, chopped liver, onion, and chicken fat, while the Dolly Parton is (drumroll, please) twin rolls of corned beef and pastrami.